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Bismarck, 2000, a Non-pitcher’s
Journal We angled up
through Iowa to I-90 in Minnesota, across the high prairies to Sioux Falls,
SD. From there we turned north .
In Watertown,
SD, we got off the interstate to refuel the van, and ourselves. On the southwest corner of the intersection
of the highways was an immense red brick, many-pillared building. It is the
Redlin Art Center. There is
a picture of it on the official South Dakota state map. Terry Redlin , named
America’s favorite artist seven years in a row, came back to his home town , built this museum and gave it to the
city. Admission is free. What a wonderful gift! There were no
towns to speak of, and few signs of people, going north to Fargo. Farms were tucked into groves of trees. There were hay bales in the median and to
the sides of the highway. We later
learned that farmers bid on the rights to the grassland in the highway’s
periphery. Imagine the acreage that is
utilized in this way. From Fargo west
to Bismarck we saw more sunflower fields, and more and more wheat fields, oats,
some corn and soybeans. We began seeing
herds of horses as well as cattle. We by-passed
Jamestown with its giant bison high on a ridge overlooking the highway. My little
knowledge of North Dakota included the fact that Lawrence Welk was born
there. We learned that Jamestown, ND,
is the hometown of Louis L’Amour, whose last name was originally spelled
LaMoore. Not nearly as romantic!
Lewis and Clark
built Fort Mandan in late 1804, where they wintered their expedition. Sakakawea’s son was born in early February,
1805. (“Sakakawea” is the way her name
is always spelled and pronounced in North Dakota). The expedition then left North Dakota in April on their way to
the Pacific. Another historic
Bismarck site, Fort Abe Lincoln, was the last home and command post of Gen.
George Armstrong Custer. From there he
rode out to the Battle of the Little Bighorn.
Both Fort Mandan and Fort Abe Lincoln have been restored and/or
reconstructed.
-2- The town of
Bismarck was the end of the line for the railroad for many years, until a
bridge was built across the Missouri.
The capital of North Dakota employs many of the people. Other employers are oil refineries, the power stations, many health- care services,
and the Bobcat is manufactured here. Bismarck is one
of the most beautiful small cities we have ever been in. It is modern, clean, and tidy. Many of the buildings appear to be new. Homes are well kept and landscaped. The capital grounds are right in the center
of town. The capital building itself is
long and low, with a “skyscraper” tower
at its center. The population of the two cities, Bismarck and Mandan, was given
as between 60 and 70,000 people, quite small for a state capital. Kirkwood mall
was built in the 1970’s, but it, also, appears new, and well kept. They put money aside at the time it was
built to keep it maintained properly It
is completely carpeted – which must be a boon in the winter. Some of its
older residents told us that Bismarck had virtually no trees when they were
young. It probably looked very much
like Catlin’s painting. Some sort of reforestation program was
instituted (possibly the CCC), and now the inner city is beautifully wooded. Trees meet overhead in a cathedral effect,
which reminds us of our town before the Dutch elm disease destroyed so many
trees here. We were camping
just outside of town to the east. As I
was being driven to the arena on the shuttle bus one day, the driver pointed
out the letters B – I – S – M – A – R –
C – K spelled out by tall pine trees on
the side of a low ridge. He said it was much more obvious when the
trees were smaller. Now, some of the
branches reach toward the next letter!
Still, a great sight. I bet it’d
be fun to see from the air. The Garrison dam
on the Missouri, and lignite coal (soft coal) fuel the many power plants
upriver from Bismarck. The coal is
mined right in North Dakota. The coal
is extensive enough to last forever, a man told us.! We were aware
that we didn’t see taverns and bars.
Oh, yes, the residents said. There are sports bars, and the restaurants
and hotels all have bars, etc. Still,
next to the towns in Iowa and Wisconsin, for instance, there was a real
shortage of neighborhood bars. Not that
that’s a bad thing! The horseshoe
tournament was held at the VFW All
Seasons Arena, which is normally home to the hockey teams and figure skating
clubs. There was room for 48 courts in
the two separate areas, office and computer space, check-in area, a snack bar, sufficient bleacher space, concession booths, a beer garden, an awards
platform, and just about anything else that was required. Everyone was happy with the facility and the
way that the ND people handled the tournament. We felt a little
bit out of the zone, regarding the sports news we were used to getting. The Minnesota Twins was about the only major
league team mentioned in detail. Local auto races were reported almost lap by
lap the next day. Arena football and
American legion baseball were getting good coverage also, on radio and TV. There was an ad
on TV, also, that was out of the ordinary for us. It was for an UltraShack, an ice fishing shack that included a
TV, microwave, 2-burner stove, and sleeping benches. We found that
the cost of food and gasoline was quite a bit higher than in Davenport. Gas was about a quarter a gallon higher,
which was surprising, with all the gasoline refineries in the area. More understandable was the higher price of
milk – 75cents to a dollar a gallon higher – because their herds are beef, not
dairy cattle, I guess.
-3- We learned in
the Bismarck Tribune about a new NPR talk show , which began July 20, called
“Native America Calling”. Its goal is
to expand the ancient Indian tradition of “the talking circle” – communicating
as equals. I wonder if it’s
just on in select areas. There are many
Native American people living in the area.
A touching obituary for an 84 year old lady, Mildred Uses Arrow ,
included her vital information, her jobs, her memberships, etc, It went on: “Mildred enjoyed dancing and
attending pow-wows. She was a back-up
singer for various drum groups and was a jingle-dress and traditional
dancer. She enjoyed beading, bingo, and
helping others.” And “Mildred was
preceded in death by her husbands, Sidney Cottonway and Percy Uses Arrow and
her parents, Thomas and Lucy Comes Last, and an adopted brother, Robert Two
Bears.” She must have been quite a
lady. As usual, we
enjoyed the camaraderie of the pitchers and their families. It was gratifying to see special friends
again, and to catch up on each other’s news.
The competitions, especially in the championship rounds, were as exciting
as ever. It was a good tournament. Both going to
and from Bismarck, we shared the highways with seemingly endless groups of
motorcyclists, who were on their way to and from the Sturgis reunion. It was funny to see them in the rest areas
and gas stations, almost to a man talking on their cell phones! Someone told us they estimated there had
been 600,000 that year in Sturgis. It was good to
be able to attend yet another tournament, and, as usual, it was good to get
back home. Next year’s tournament will
be in Hibbing, Minnesota. That will be
another new area for us to learn about.
It’s so interesting to spend two weeks in cities that you would
otherwise have no reason to visit. We
find that they all have something special and unique about them, and have
really enjoyed each and every one. Betty Burlingame |
